Crustless ‘Quiche’

Time: 30 to 40 minutes

1 cup cream, half-and-half, milk or a combination, gently heated just until warm
3 eggs, at room temperature
3/4 cup grated Emmenthal, Gruyère, Cantal or a combination
1/4 cup grated Parmesan or hard pecorino
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or to taste
Butter as needed
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1. Heat oven to 325 degrees and set rack in middle of it. Combine all ingredients except butter and beat until well blended.

2. Pour into 4 to 6 buttered ramekins (or a buttered gratin or pie plate) and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until almost firm; it should still jiggle just a little in middle. Cool on a rack, then serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Note: You can play around with the cheese, using goat or cream cheese, or ricotta, backing off on the cream a little. You can add herbs, by the pinch or teaspoon or tablespoon, or you can add herb pastes, like pesto; again, reduce the cream a bit.

To make a mushroom “quiche,” cook a pile of mushrooms (using half reconstituted porcini works well) in butter, and use them as you would onions, or in combination with them.

Other vegetables are good candidates for inclusion in this custard, though most are best if you parboil them first, then drain them and include them in the egg mixture.